STRUCTURAL CONCERNS FOR BEDROOM(Part3)
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Written by smith
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Monday, 22 December 2008 |
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STRUCTURAL CONCERNS (Part3)
DOORS, WINDOWS & SKYLIGHTS
Doors, windows, and skylights—often lumped together as "openings"—have a great deal to do with how your bedroom relates to the spaces around it.
The best door for a bedroom is a solid one, not a noise-transmitting, hollow-core type. A door located near a corner will interfere with furniture less than one in the middle of a wall. Adding a hinge-stop to a door will allow you to place furniture behind it. Remember to install a wall switch on the nonhinged side of each door.
Interior doors needn't be impenetrable barriers. Single- or multi pane panels of glass admit light while sealing off noise and drafts; choose frosted or diffused glass to protect privacy. Pocket doors are great space savers.
The placement, size, shape, and number of windows will have a significant effect on the amount of light they bring into a room. A south-facing window (north-facing in the southern hemisphere) will let in the most light and is desirable in all but hot climates. A window oriented to the north provides soft, diffuse light. Do you want cheery east light to wake you in the morning, or are you a night owl who prefers a more subdued way to rise?
The sun also travels from north to south and back again over the course of each year (see drawing above). Permanent or seasonally mounted exterior awnings, canopies, and overhangs are effective for keeping summer sun out while maximizing precious winter warmth and light. Other options include exterior shutters or shades and interior window coverings.
A skylight adds light, a view, and in some cases ventilation without affecting privacy or taking up any wall space. For soft, uniform light, use a north-facing skylight or one with either translucent glazing or a diffusing panel at the ceiling level. You'll need to build a light shaft if there's an attic or crawl space between the roof and ceiling (see drawing on page 11).
A general rule of thumb for determining sky?light size is to allow 1 square foot of skylight area for every 20 square feet of floor space. Additional glazing can open up a small room but may squander energy. The deeper your light shaft and the higher your ceiling, the larger your skylight will have to be to provide the desired amount of light.
NIGHT LIGHTING
Once the sun goes down, lighting becomes necessary: ambient lighting so you can see the other end of the room; task lighting for reading; and perhaps accent or mood lighting to cast a relaxing glow or highlight a favorite artwork. Don't make the mistake of leaving the bedroom entirely dark except for bedside light: too much contrast is hard on the eyes.
You'll find detailed information on lighting schemes, fixtures, and bulbs on pages 92-95. Besides general room lighting, a fixture or switch you can reach from bed is a virtual necessity. Be sure to account for the view from bed: glaring, unshielded, or high-intensity bulbs are not desirable.
Once you narrow your options, add light fixture symbols (see page 10), switches, and plug-in outlets for auxiliary lamps to your base map, with at least one switch-controlled light accessible from each doorway. Can you reach lights easily without fumbling in the dark? Have you provided sufficient light for a sitting area or walk-in closet?
It's important to remember that light-colored surfaces reflect light and dark surfaces absorb it (exceptions are very shiny, lacquerlike finishes). Fabric textures also respond to light—think of the sheen of silk or the haze of mohair. A bedroom's colors and textures interact both with daylight and with the color temperatures of the light sources you choose. Mirrors and shiny surfaces multiply light sources and add drama.
But now we're crossing the divide to that other realm of bedroom design—the world of color, pattern, and style. To learn more about these and other decorating concepts.
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Last Updated ( Wednesday, 25 February 2009 )
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